The first step is to cut a bunch of ties. As a matter of fact, I cut all the ties before installing
any turnouts. My standard ties are 6’-6” in length, so that means I need to cut the ‘switch’ ties in
lengths from 7’-0” to 13’-0” in 6” increments. The switch ties are already 12’-0”, so those are easy.
The 12’-6” and 13’-0” ties are cut from tie stock material (24in length). I prefer to stain my ties
before putting them down on the roadbed. For details on my tie treatment see my section on
trackwork.
For my layout, I decided to use #7 turnouts and have created my own templates for the ties. The
#7 turnouts are a good compromise for the larger K-class locomotives, not that they couldn’t make
it through a #6. A #8 turnout would look great, but they take up a lot of real estate. While making
my template, I decide I would change the spacing between some ties and make them just like the
prototype, where the ties are spaced closer together under the points and frog. In addition, I placed
the ties closer together where the electrical gaps are. Since the #7 turnouts are over 16” in length
I have provided two versions of the template. The original, which includes a title block, is on a ‘C’
size sheet, which is 22” x 17”. The other version is cropped to fit on an 11” x 17”. If you decide
to use the template, be sure to check the length of the printed template to make sure it is printed
to scale.
Pin down a piece of masking tape sticky side up over the template. Now place the ties down on the
making tape using the template as a guide. For left and right turnouts you can pin down a straight
edge for easy alignment. You now have a strip of ties for a turnout ready to go. Just remember to
use the opposite template (LH/RH) for the turnout you want since the ties will be flipped over when
you lay them on the roadbed.
With the turnout location marked on the roadbed, spread some glue out and put down the ties. Reposition
any ties that are out of alignment before the glue dries. Once the glue dries peel off the tape and sand
the ties level.
Now re-stain the ties using your favorite method. I like to use the standard alcohol and India ink
mixture, and then hit the ties with a wire brush to add some grain. After that I apply additional stains.
For more details, see my section on trackwork.
I prefer to not have any joints in the stock rails, so take notice when approaching a turnout you
are about to lay. Position the stock rail over the ties and use a scribe to mark the center of the first
switchblock tie. Repeat for the other stock rail. Its time to notch the stock rails to accept the points.
Starting at the scribed mark, file down the base of the rail almost to the web. I find it easiest to lay
the rail down on its side on a block of wood to do the filing.
The total length of rail to file is about 2 inches. The first 3/8" should be filed to the full depth.
Be sure not to file off any of the railhead. After that the depth should gradually come back up and be
feathered out as seen here:
To make the frog and point rails, I like to use the Fast Tracks PointForm filing jig. The jig will
give you consistent points and frog rails and I recommend using it even if you are only doing a handful
of turnouts. The
Fast Tracks website has online videos showing how to use the PointForm tool. After creating
the frog rails the two halves need to be soldered together. I spike the two halves down on a template
and solder them together to maintain the proper angle. With all of the pieces of the turnout ready it’s
time to begin spiking down the rail.
Starting with the straight stock rail, in the case of a left or right turnout, position the rail
for spiking. Verify the start of the notch is in the proper place. It should start on the center of
the first switchblock tie. This will allow the tip of the point rail to sit on the tie. I like to use
a straight edge to keep the stock rail nice and straight. After spiking one side, remove the straight
edge and spike the other side. I don’t spike the first 7 ties, instead I use the San Juan Car Co.
switch detail kit (#5006) which has the rail braces that I put on later. If you are not going to use
the detail kit go ahead and spike some of the first 7 ties on the outside only.
Next comes the frog. I marked the location of the frog when I transferred the template to the roadbed
to help with the placement. Before spiking down the frog, check the location of the rail ‘extended’ on
the diverging route. In other words, be sure the rail will be in the proper location on the standard
ties when it leaves the turnout. If need be, you can ever so slightly change the angle of the frog or
move the frog towards or away from the point, but not much. Once you find the proper location, cut and
file the frog rails to length for the gap. I set the gap between ties 33 and 34 on the template. Now
drill a hole for the feeder wire under one of the rails. Drop in a feeder wire with a 90 degree bend
and then reposition the frog and spike it down. Check the gauge with your NMRA track gauge. Once the
frog is spiked down, wedge the feeder wire up against the bottom of the rail and solder it in place.
Position the other stock rail and be sure to properly locate the notch for the point rail. The
‘notch’ should start on the center of the first switchblock tie. Start gauging the rail on the standard ties
approaching the points. Gauge the last few ties before the switchblock on the ‘loose’ side of the tolerance
of the NMRA track gauge. This will give the wheelsets more room to avoid picking the points. Now put a very
small outward kink in the rail at the beginning of the ‘notch’. This will get the diverging rail started in
going away and allow the point to nestle in close to the stock rail. Leave the rail between the switchblock
ties and the frog unspiked, we’ll get those later. Spike the stock rail opposite the frog rail then leave
the rest of the rail past the frog unspiked.
You can now gauge and spike the rail past the frog after leaving a small gap in the rail and then finish
up the stock rail past the frog.
Next drill holes for the feeder wires, two for the point rails and one for the wing rails. Like before,
drop some feeder wires in before spiking down the rail. Starting with the ‘straight’ point rail, position
the point in the ‘notch’ at the first switchblock tie. Cut and file the point rail to length, between tie
22 and 23 on the template. Spike the point rail in place starting from the frog and working half way back
to the points. The half way point is the heel of the switch (see template).
Repeat the process for the diverging point rail, but be sure to get the end of the point rail leading
into the frog tangent with the frog itself. With the rail spiked on the two ties closest to the frog the
rail should make a nice curve back to the points. If the curve looks good spike the rest of the rail (up
to the heel of the switch) in place.
The next step, forming the wing rails, is probably the hardest part of handlaying a turnout. Start
with a piece of rail and bend the frog angle. Cut the end towards the points to length, be sure to
leave a gap between the wing rail and point rail. Test fit the wing rail and check the gauge. The rail
past the bend should be parallel to the frog rail and the proper distance away, use the NMRA gauge to
check it. Once you get a good fit, cut the other end past he frog to length and put a small bend in
the end to keep the wheels from picking it. Now form the other wing rail and spike them both in place.
For the guard rails, cut some rail to length and put a small bend in each end. If you look at the
template you can see I have two ties spiked where the guard rails go. To get the guard rail the proper
distance from the stock rail I file a small notch in the base of the guard rail where the spike from
the stock rail will sit. Now with two spikes you can hold the guard rail up against the stock rail.
The last step is to slip a PC tie between the switchblock ties and solder the points. Be sure to
file down or cut through the copper cladding on the PC tie to prevent a short. Use the NMRA gauge to
check for the proper clearance between the point and stock rail. Also, be sure to solder on any
remaining feeder wires that have not been attached yet. Now install the turnout control of your
choice and test the turnout for proper operation. For details on how I wired my Tortoise switch
machines, see my section on
wiring.
If you have questions or comments email the
Track Gang.
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